Archive for February, 2008

We got out to the Sads again today. This time, I dragged along all my photo gear, and have more than just my words to amuse and delight you, my dear readers. One of the climbers in our group wanted a second crack at Strength in Numbers.

The area classic didn’t go down quite so easily, and inflicted its share of flappers.

We also set up camp at another area classic, and one of my long-standing projects, Pow Pow (V8). This kind of problem is exactly my kind of problem – crimpy edges and precise, powerful throws. I came very close to finishing it two years ago but was forced to walk away after a hour-long battle that left me too fatigued to muscle it out, and this time I was back with a vengeance.

The starting holds to Pow Pow – two shallow slopey crimps that you need to lock off on before you can throw to the next (another shallow, slopey crimp) hold. Anthony in the picture below gives you all a good idea of what’s involved.

So the five of us are sitting around, working the problem, when two other climbers come in the area and start taking their shots at it. I’m feeling a little peevish. I came here to finish this problem and I wasn’t going to sit here and watch someone else do it before me. So I cleared the air, chalked up and put that baby to bed first. My first ascent of the V8 grade and it couldn’t have happened on a better problem.

After a full weekend of climbing, my fingers are all painful and swelly. I’m going to need a few days to recover before I get back to work on some new projects…

Oh, and… apparently we weren’t the only ones doing climbing that day…

Another full day out climbing, this time at the Sads. I’d only come out here once, and that was during my trip over Thanksgiving weekend in 2006.

I also did not climb very much that day, opting to do photographs instead.

So it was some suprise and amusement – after reviewing the tick list from yesterday’s climbing at the Sads, that I realized I’d photographed other climbers on three of four problems I did yesterday, two years ago. So in a mashup of yesterday and two years past..

Joe on The Mothership Connection (V4). This especially gravy problem involves a hand and foot jam below the ledge, then reaching out for your choice of ledges and a lock off before reaching for the good hueco above (and out) of the picture. This is amongst one of my favorite bouldering pictures.

Molly (V5) – an immaculate problem starting off on many good pockets, and ultimately requiring a tough throw to a sidepull, then lots of body tension before the throw to the edge.

Last but not least, Strength in Numbers (V5). This problem is an natural park-attraction. The holds are large and inviting. The area is open and lots of rocks around for spectators to sit around and watch climbers test their mettle. And most importantly.. the crux is up there on the very top, so there are plenty of cheers or tears as climbers make their fortune, or fly off, crashing into the mats – over and over. It is no wonder that this is an area classic.

Ticklist for today -

• Chizam (V5)
• Loaded (V1)
• The Mothership Connection (V4)
• Molly (V5)
• Strength in Numbers (V5)

I was feeling good today. I slept in this morning and woke up feeling all burly. With brilliant blue skies and nothing but sun in the sky, I headed up to the Buttermilks to find it completely packed.

I warmed up on a couple easy routes on the Sunshine Boulder, before finding a group of people working on High Plains Drifter. This V7 is one of the most classic lines and one of Bishop’s most famous testpeices. The guide exhorts you:

The ultra classic Buttermilks testpiece: If you can climb this grade but haven’t done this line, you better step up!

Three years ago when I first came here, I stepped back and could only look with at wonder on this beautiful, but scary-high problem. The difficult part was down low, and after the last drifter move, you’d be able to scoot up the good patina to the top. But it was still scary-high! I wondered if I’d ever see the day when I’d be able to climb a V7, much less a testpiece like this one. The photo below is for illustration purposes – there wasn’t any snow on the rock today.

A year and half ago, I came out to the Buttermilks again and gave the starting holds a feel. I was daunted by the crimps and edges. I gave it a few tries before deciding that I was better off doing more realistic problems.

So this morning. Like I said, I was feeling burly. I also was feeling like I was actually stronger than I was two years ago, even though I had not climbed much? Mabye it was the weight training or something. But regardless.

I gave it a try. I slapped wide on the crux move, a sloper edge that leads to the drifter edge and fell back to earth. But I also knew immediately that I could do it. It was not impossible for me anymore. I rested ten minutes, then chalked up and gave it another try. And I smashed that ball out of the park! Standing on the very top of the rock, I was feeling so fucking great!

Simply finishing out this day with a send of High Plains Drifter (V7) would have been more than enough for me, but when I met up with a group that were heading up to do Saigon (V6), I couldn’t turn down the chance. This was another project that had taunted me for years, both with it’s crazy around-the-arete-throw-to-a-jug, and a top-out that is anything but a gimme.

Strangely enough, I had a harder time with Saigon, than High Plains Drifter. My first throw for the jug had me swinging wildly around before poppping off and landing hard on the pad. My second try went even worse and I landed badly on one ankle, forcing me to hop around for a couple minutes. But I wasn’t ready to call it quits yet. I sat on a rock, channeling my mental focus and then stood up and threw off my coat. One other guy in the group pointed to me and said, “get it done”.  Hell yes, I was going to get it done.

Two minutes later, clutching madly on the jug while my legs flew out wildly, I said to myself – “dammit, dont pop off again” and willed my other hand to match. I found myself matched on the jug, legs back on the rock and with only the topout left to do. And I knew it wouldnt be a gimme. It’s not hard, but its not easy either. Your heart is racing along at 100 miles a hour and you want to be over with it now, but you still have another five feet of climbing to do. I had to mentally yell at myself to stop, breathe, and analyze my options and safely top out. I certainly didn’t want to crater from 25 feet above the deck.

And I didnt. I got up to the top, panting and yelling and seeing everyone down on the ground yelling at me like it was the most awesome show they ever saw.

Personal first sends of High Plains Drifter and Saigon in one day. It was a good day for me. :)